Shoun RyuGin

Taipei, Taiwan

Japanese kaiseki with a nod to Taiwan’s bountiful produce

Shoun RyuGin

On the Pass

Ryohei Hieda

What sets it apart: An offshoot of legendary Japanese chef Seiji Yamamoto’s flagship Nihonryori RyuGin, Shoun RyuGin specialises in kaiseki crafted not with Japanese but Taiwanese produce.

What ingredients can we expect? Head chef Ryohei Hieda spent months combing the Taiwanese terroir before opening the restaurant. Today, apart from Japanese sauces, which he still brings in from Japan, he uses exclusively local ingredients, such as sweet ayu fish, amadai (tilefish), pigeon and vegetables.

The best dish? Diners who’ve eaten at Shoun RyuGin consistently rave about the dish of roasted local pigeon with rosemary. You won’t want to miss it.

About the chef: Hieda-san speaks a smattering of “guo yu” (standard Mandarin spoken in Taiwan) and the best time to see him in action is when he negotiates with the fish and seafood mongers at the Keelung Fish Market (also called the Tsukiji market of Taiwan).

Other ventures: Given its proximity to Raw, which is located in the same building, it helps to know that the owner of Shoun RyuGin also owns Raw and the entire Ruth’s Chris Steak House franchise in Asia.